RESTAURANT REVIEW: Venetia van Kuffeler delights in the food and atmosphere of Bob Bob Ricard
BOB BOB RICARD is famous for its ‘Press for Champagne’ buttons in every booth, where guests are encouraged to try a glass – or bottle – with their meal. With four champagnes by the glass to choose from, we went for the Ayala Rosé Majeur – an epic start.
Bob Bob Ricard opened in late 2008 and the queues for this Soho establishment were often out the door. Executive head chef Eric Chavot has been at BBR since last August, a coup given that he held two Michelin stars at his restaurant at The Capital Hotel.
With hideaway booths, shining brass, electric blue leather banquettes and lamp light, the atmosphere is definitely railroad chic, with the feeling you’re on the way to somewhere fabulous. David Collins’s decor is over the top, but gorgeous, and the wait staff wear the house colours: pale pink jackets with gold trim. Although we were there at lunchtime, it’s probably best to go for dinner, as the stunning property promises an evening of glittering indulgence.
The menu begins with some vodka shot options, and then a caviar menu (ranging from £25 to £40 for 20g of Russian Oscietra, so not the silly prices I’ve seen in other restaurants). We, however, kicked off with six Oysters Brezhenv, baked with parmesan and topped with black truffle. A decadent but amazing tasting treat, we could smell them long before they arrived. They boded well for things to come. I began with the crab served with chilli and avocado – a beautifully presented stack of hand-picked white crab meat, served with a tomato and basil consommé – ideal after the rich amuse bouche. My companion chose a house dish of lobster, crab and shrimp Pelmeni, which again, were stunningly presented dumpling parcels topped with vibrant orange salmon roe. He was happy as a clam. For the main course, I chose the 16oz Dover sole meunière cooked in lightly browned butter, which the waiter took off the bone for me, and he had the pave steak of peppercorn and brandy sauce. Both dishes were served with ideal French fries and honied parsnips and carrot sides. Delicious.
Sadly, there was no time for pudding, so we had to settle on boozy chocolate truffles dusted with pink and gold glitter alongside our Americanos. A sparking finale to our lunch at Bob Bob Ricard.
This is a big menu with lots of fish, but also plenty of warm, comforting dishes to choose from, including lobster macaroni and cheese, steak tartare Imperial (served with soft boiled quails eggs and caviar) to the vegetarian Champagne and Truffle Humble Pie. Bob Bob Ricard is a lot of fun, but the food is excellent too.
BOB BOB RICARD IS OPEN DAILY FOR LUNCH AND DINNER.
1 UPPER JAMES ST, SOHO, LONDON W1F 9DF WWW.BOBBOBRICARD.COM
T: +44 (0)20 3145 1000 E: RESERVATIONS@BOBBOBRICARD.COM